Packgoats: Picking Your Packer

There is no best-breed-for-packing award and the choice will depend on your preference, but here is a run-down on the packing qualities of each breed:

Nubian: They are very loyal and love attention. They are also very noisy (think siamese cats) which can be annoying on the trail. This breed is very stubborn and difficult to train. I would say that nubians are lazy and it's easy to become discouraged and let them become spoiled. I have seen nubian packgoats, but they were difficult to work with and were constantly making a fuss. Don't pick a nubian if you are new to packgoats.

Saanen: Probably the biggest of the packers, the saanens are a very good beginner breed as long as you train them to respect you. They can easily weigh over 200 pounds so you'll need to be in control from the beginning. Saanens are gentle, loyal and good natured. They are hard workers and very nimble for their size. Because of their white coats and light skin, they overheat easier than the other breeds.

Oberhalsi: A wether of this breed is small-medium in size and can be very stocky. They make very good packers and are an excellent beginners packgoat. They are very quiet, sweet and loyal. Oberhalsis have a sweet, gentle nature and have beautiful markings. They are more willing to cross water than any other breed with little to no training, which takes one of the biggest training hold-ups off your hands.

Toggenburg: I prefer this breed over the others because my first (and best) packgoat was a togg. This breed can be stubborn and snotty, but if you get them while they are bottle feeding, they can be super loyal and willing to please. They are medium to medium-large in size and easy to manage. They work hard like to play.

Alpine: These guys rival the size of the saanens, make a good first packgoat and are easy to work with. They like to work hard and play hard. Alpines make their fair share of noise but are really sweet and loyal. Because of their size, you need to establish trust and respect before they outweigh you, because they can be a bully if they know they can push you around.

LaMancha: Best known for its ears which you will either love or hate. This breed is generally pretty small. They are very sturdy, but won't be able to pack as much as the larger breeds. They are very sweet natured and gentle. They are easy to train but have the opinion that they are welcome everywhere and are known to get into your tent, rummage through the packs and try to follow you into the house.

A mix of any of the above will generally be a good packer.  I would still stay away from nubian crosses because you never know which parent they'll take after.  Steer clear of the meat and dwarf breeds if you're serious about packing.  They aren't built to carry a load and you'll be wasting your time.

Picking a new kid is as hard as picking a new puppy. They are all cute and playful and it's difficult to be subjective and picky when you see them playing. Getting a kid that is still bottle feeding will ensure that your packgoat is strongly bonded to you and will make training easier, but it's a huge commitment since they need several feedings daily until they are at least 8 weeks old. If you'll be getting one that is weaned, try to get him while he's still quite young. The younger the kid, the easier the first part of training will be.

Since you'll be picking a hiking partner that will be packing your gear, you need a kid that looks like it will be large and strong. Try not to get hung up on the cute colors or pick a runt. Choose a kid that has bright, clean eyes and lots of energy. The hind legs should have slightly in-turned hocks which will give your packgoat leverage in steep terrain. The back should be straight and strong - not angled like a dairy goat.

You'll need to pick a breeder that has healthy, happy goats and is willing to answer your questions. The parents are a huge indicator as to how your kid will turn out, so take a look at the buck especially since he will tell you how big you can expect the kids to be. Since you won't be packing with a buck, but a wether (neutered male), your goat may end up slightly smaller.

Unless you already have goats, get a pair of kids. A kid by itself will make endless noise, grow slowly (no competition), and generally be difficult to work with. If you don't need 2 packgoats, consider getting a dwarf breed as a companion to your packer or talk a friend/family member into joining you in raising, training and packing.

 Another thing to ask yourself is whether you want a doe or a wether to pack with.  Does are perfectly capable of carrying a smaller load and if you have her bred, you can milk on the trail which is a nice perk.  I prefer to stick with a wethered male because they can carry more and you won't have to deal with a heat cycle, kids or milking.

One of the stronger debates concerning packgoats is whether to have a goat with horns or not. Personally, I am for horns. Allowing your goat to have horns has its benefits.

• Since your packgoat will likely have to carry a pack in warm/hot weather, the horns will help him regulate his temperature. Because there is a large blood vessel inside each horn, your goat will naturally be able to let off some excess heat.
• Packing out in the woods can have its dangers. A goat with horns will be equipped to better defend himself if need be. Goats are not necessarily great fighters, but he'll be better off than without horns.

Having horns can sometimes be a disadvantage depending on the situation.

• Goats have strong necks and can do some damage with their horns. This is where establishing trust and respect pays off.
• Depending on the type of fencing you use, they can get their heads stuck in the wire.
• If you want to show your goat, you will probably have to deal with people who are anti-horn and won't allow you to enter.

Horns are definitely a personal preference choice, and I suggest meeting a few (well behaved) goats with horns and some without before you make the choice.

Wattles are the other cosmetic option that you can find on a goat.  Wattles are a small tuft of skin that usually appears at the top of the neck under the chin that add a very "Heidi" look to a goat. They are harmless, serve no purpose, but look nice. They have been know to appear in other places such as the ears and legs.

 Once you have your kid(s), it's time to work on that bond and trust.  To do this, spend as much time as possible with them.  Handle their feet and legs often - a goat that won't let you trim their hooves is a nightmare.  Touch their face and pat down their back.  If your kid will have horns, touch and scratch around that area to get them used to having them touched.  Get them completely bomb-proof to strange sounds and being touched all over.  I like to have them walk over a tarp so they get used to strange terrain and loud noises. 

It's also a good idea to set up a little playground for them while they are still small.  You don't want anything too tall but some logs that are nailed down so they won't roll, a smaller wire spool and a ramp will let your kid build his agility, strength and balance while he has some fun.  You can increase the size as they get older, or start taking them into the woods for some natural environment training. 

While they are still small (and light) start them on lead training.  Only let them wear a collar while you are working with them so they don't accidently hang themselves.  Lead training a goat is easy.  Hook the lead to them and coax them along with treats (or their bottle if they are still on it) and give them a command like "come" or "walk".  It doesn't take long before they'll follow happily.

Take lots of pictures of your goat because they grow like a weed!  This is a very fun phase of your packgoat partnership, so take the time to appreciate it!